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As I sailed amongst the multitudes of coots, mallards and swans, strong gusts reminded me of the increasing wind, now blowing NNE. "We'd best get back Emy," I said patting her wooden sides. Out into the wild lake, the wind abaft the port beam, we sailed through tumbling waves. The shoreline slipped past at an alarming rate. To get to the slipway I would have to gybe or go about to get the sail on the port side. In this wind I didn't fancy a gybe so as we entered the bay I turned upwind to port. The attempt to tack was thwarted by a large breaking wave, which threw my bow back, and again on the next try. We were now too near the pounding beach so I stayed close hauled till we cleared the point. Again I tried and was again thrown back; now we were amongst the buoys marking the rocks, so we had to stay close hauled out into the lake.
With the lee now safe I watched for a non-breaking wave with a longer trough behind it. When it came I turned Emy into the wave so that the bow was square to the following wave. I grabbed the paddle as the boat stopped in irons; it needed three strong bow strokes to complete the tack. The sail snapped into place and drove Emerald Dawn towards the slip, rocking and rolling through the beam-on waves. When almost there a large breaker plus a strong gust of wind threw us sideways and with a loud crack the leeboard broke. Luckily it stayed trapped against the hull and remained active till we reached the shore, where willing hands assisted us up the slip. Very, very exciting - nothing on Blackpool pleasure beach comes near to that ride. With weather conditions as they were, Cumbria radio was giving dire warnings of flooded roads and fallen trees, and don't travel if you can avoid it. The remaining six (not surprisingly no one else turned up on Sunday) packed up for home.
Scottish Trip (Part 2) (EddieP)
Day 3 - Crinan to Ardfern - 8 miles
The weather the next day was great again - no one had heard of any alternative forecast except for more sun for two more days, but I was also very tired and saddle-sore now, and wanted a short day. I decided on Ardfern, really because I hadn't been there ever. I waved goodbye to my new German friends, stocked up on some supplies, visited the teashop again, and tried to gauge a start to catch Dorus Mor at slack tide, about 1.00 p.m.
Those familiar with the west coast will know of the tidal doors that slam shut on you - no sailing against them without power. Dorus Mor (literal translation - the 'big door') is perhaps the most innocuous, but I wasn't taking any chances in a small craft. Too strong a tide could take me across the mouth of Loch Craignish, and I just wanted to creep up the east side of the sea loch. I caught the last of the ebb, and landed at Scodaig at the very end of the bay for a look and a short rest. The afternoon was spent in a delightful browse up between islands, always accompanied by seals, who continually swam and played under the canoe. Finally, I fetched up at Ardfern, spent the evening in the pub again, now with plenty of salty tales, and camped on Eilean Mhic Chrion just offshore.
Day 4 - Ardfern to Craobh Haven Marina, via Luing and Shuna - 15 miles
I decided on a cruise round to the fairly new marina of Craobh Haven, and based the timing on going through Dorus Mor with the last of the ebb. I also had a quite regular Force 3, and the boat fairly flew along that day. So the shore party could amuse themselves with the pub at the marina all afternoon if I was late. Interestingly, the 'break' in the weather the next day was minor, and there was only a bit of grey cloud, and drizzle lasting about an hour all day!
Noggin was used to this now, although entirely encrusted in salt, as was my Buffalo suit. I dawdled and landed twice on the way to the open sea. Dorus Mor was fine. I was through at 1.00 p.m. and sailing fast on a reach, with some tide against me, west of the islands off Craignish, and heading fast for the southern end of Luing! Was I fated to carry on north? To help me decide, about 12 dolphins then joined me, flashing along, turning and diving under the canoe. I'm sure they enjoy sailing craft. The flood then lifted me, and I decided to stop, unplanned, on Luing. Toberonochy was new to me, although I had visited Luing many times before both sailing and canoeing. It seemed like the end of the voyage - I had made fantastic progress that day, and was looking for more amusement. I went across to Shuna, and also went ashore on the quay at the north end of the island. There only remained a short stretch against the wind rounding Shuna, and a final two miles across to the noise and busyness of Craobh (crow) Haven. This spot has a little place in my affections. The original quiet islets, which were later joined by breakwaters, were the first anchorages I made on my very first charter trip out of Loch Melford in 1980.
Anyway, we all use such safe places, and it was good to finish. I had had a fantastic four days, felt very fit, though tired, and the canoe had performed to complete satisfaction, never feeling unsafe. I know now that it'll be fine with more camping equipment carried in it, even in waves, so I suspect I'd learnt what some of the OCSG already know. This was easily the longest trip by canoe that I'd ever made. There's nothing more to say really - the west coast of Scotland is the best place in the world when the weather behaves itself! [Read Part 1.]
Calm At Open Canoe Symposium (RoyB)
This annual event was held this year at YMCA, Lakeside. At least 200 people turned up for a variety
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