Published by the Open Canoe Sailing Group

If you find this list of shape options too short, I would like to add the possibility of making the float cross-section the shape of a superellipse. (As you of course know, this is a cross between an ellipse and a rectangle, developed by the Danish mathematician Piet Hein, aka the famous poet Kumbel.) The AYRS publications do of course contain other stuff of relevance to sailing canoes, covering aspects like hull, rudder, leeboard, sail and rig design, etc.

The AYRS articles themselves are not currently available on the Internet. The back issues containing them can be purchased from the AYRS at modest cost.

Do You Remember? (RoyB)

Although NigelC did not send this photo to the editor as a contribution towards the development of outriggers in the OCSG, we might nevertheless consider it as a thought-provoking experiment. Perhaps it could herald the beginning of a catamaran style design, considering the relative size of main hull and outrigger. One doesn't wish to be carping, but we would have appreciated a view of the vessel bowling along in a force 4 to fully judge its potential. We understand that the sailor pictured is not yet a member, but we heartily encourage her to join our ranks,

where she will undoubtedly gain from the comments offered. Most of us, I would guess, could regale her with interesting tales of our first foray into the sport.

Outriggers (MalcolmC)

The reason I am going for outriggers with a U-shaped cross section is because I want them to be mounted on a single beam; hence they must be short. Short and thin does not equal much displaced volume so it has to be short and fat.

Why only one beam? Because I find that two very much restrict the entry and exit from the main hull. This is made even worse if the beams are high. It can be quite difficult to step over a high beam when you are walking on an uneven and slippery lakebed, especially if the wind is trying to move the boat as well. If you want knife blades like the B&Q trimaran then they need to be very long and very deep to have sufficient buoyancy. I think you also need to have the beams high at the hull and then dropping down vertically to the outrigger. That way they will not produce much drag if they are immersed. Fastening the beams to the hull works very well with lashings but it is time consuming. The method that Solway Dory have used for their later outrigger boats with aluminium tubes for the main beams sliding into short tubes in the hull and outriggers seems a much quicker method.

As for max beam, I think that anything under two feet will be too narrow and uncomfortable. Do you intend to lounge in the boat as you do in your current canoe? If so you will have to have sufficient beam low down. If you sit on top as I did in my tri then you will probably feel very exposed and uncomfortable on long trips. Lounging is much the best way to travel long distances.

Did you know that Dennis Davis designed a small trimaran a few years ago? I think it was called the Blues Trio. It was only about 12 feet long and had more of a dinghy style main hull.

Outriggers - Further Thoughts (NigelC)

Outriggers get in the way when mooring at jetties and when providing assistance to other craft in trouble. While on the water I've been able to tinker with someone else's rudder for them and haul aboard the drowning dummy. At the AGM I was able to step into my boat and keep my feet dry. As my kayak is decked I do not have the option of boarding from the bow or stern. My single outrigger is huge compared to one of a pair and so the luggage compartment is a really useful size.

At the recent NEC boat show was a Chester firm that sells modern proas. The 16-foot main hull has a 10.5-foot outrigger to give an overall width of about seven feet. The blurb says that the weighted outrigger is equivalent to a 100kg (15½ stone) man on the gunwale. Try their web-site for some lovely pictures and a eulogy on single outriggers far better than I can manage.

Outriggers - A Voice Of Experience (PeterB)

I have a single outrigger or secondary hull with a volume of 40 litres and weighing 15kg, very long and thin, cross section 10 cm x 10 cm rounded off with a rubbing strip on the bottom. It is mounted about 1.8m out from the centre of the main hull. I had planned to use some water ballast to make the support when it is pushing down equal to the weight when it is lifting up but find it fine without. The important point is that it all lashes together so I have endless choice in exactly

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